St. Jean de Luz in Color

You can't go wrong

in St. Jean de Luz.

It's a big-hearted little tourist town.

With pleasures aplenty.

Especially if your idea of gladness is a cheese shaped liked a Citroen 2CV.

There's lots of girlie kinds of shopping.

Even if some of the girlie goodies actually originated elsewhere.

The love of color is engaging and intoxicating.

Whether you're looking to fill your cups.

Or fill your tummy - at Yves Camdeborde's "Le P'tit Suisse." 

Don't miss out on Gateau Basque

or Maison Adams macarons which are not entirely

like the other sorts of macarons that you know and love.  The Basque version is perhaps the 

"Grandpapa" of the colored and flavored versions in Paris patisseries.  But just as "croquant".

Basque chilis seems to be fatter, meatier, juicier, happier than any chilis you've ever encountered.

And Basque espadrilles?  Brighter, cheerier, stripier?  Ya think?

Did I mention that St. Jean de Luz might just be where the Basque bon-vivant comes to cement

his or her reputation for savoring the "Good Life"?  You could go there too and start practicing.  You might have a little catching up to do.

How's the Christmas shopping going?

Evening Streets, San Sebastian

And after your swimming afternoon.....

the Parte Vieja (old town) awaits.

and enfolds you

in a gentle, gilt edged

embrace.

This is the Basque version

of the big easy, to my mind.

There is quiet.  But it is companionable.

Water laps at the Parte Vieja on two sides.

It's solemn power is both soothing and moving.

The patina'ed streets suspend you in an eternal late afternoon reverie.

Between hunger and satiety.

And when you have dined.

The evening persists.  And persists.  There is no hurry for night.

Just an extended moment for sifting through the remains of the day.

The gold turns to silver and pink.  And you realize that you have lost your heart to Donostia.

Like so many before you.  (No wonder the Basques want to keep it for themselves!)

The second weekend in December already.  How can it be?  Hope it's good for you!

La Contxa, San Sebastian - Donostia

Just in case anybody is having longings for summer already......

I had a hard time posting these pictures earlier this fall

because I felt the pictures still didn't capture the luminosity

of this glorious beach

on a hot, hot day.

We were so very charmed by this lovely place.

I wanted to make sure to do it justice.

That didn't seem possible until now.  Hope you enjoy this sunny cyber-break.

Another Day in the Pays Basque - Another Walk

When we landed in the Pays Basque it was 

nearly 90 degrees fahrenheit.

That did not keep us indoors.

Even though our lovely Basque gite did not need air conditioning.

Because of its thick walls it was cool and comfortable throughout our stay.

But we felt we had to get out.

With only a week to share between the country

and the towns and the sea....it was imperative to discover what it is that makes

the Pays Basque the Pays Basque.  Have you ever seen a Basque fence post?  Now you have!

The walks were not dissimilar in topography and flora from many parts of the U.S., surprisingly.

Although shooting through my sunglasses to get a good filter on the sky and clouds made it all seem

quite magical.  Like something out of a storybook.  As coming upon this Mother Cow and her NEWBORN(!) calf was, too.  (Mama was not thrilled about Mr. Paradis, for some reason.)

The vast vistas seemed magical, with the volcanic peaks in the distance

And you know - those lights at the ends of tunnels - evoke out-of-body experiences.

The roadways were covered in prickly chestnuts, which we collected and pocketed.

And after just a little more traipsing.  We ended up in the pleasant village of Sare.  Where the Autumn 

"Fete" was going on.

We had to join in.  Of course.  Walking makes a person thirsty!