A Week in Our Life

I just read the news about Paris.  This Friday night.

 (First and last pics "Cloud Tsunami" over Sydney, OZ via the Guardian)

I hope you all are safe.

 (Fireworks at Guy Fawkes Day in Lewes, Sussex, UK also via the Guardian)

I always wonder why/how/whether I should even post under such circumstances.

 (Moses on the Mesa)

These are beautiful images

 (Singapore, via Hello Sandwich also below)

which arrived on my doorstep

in a way of speaking.

 (Camilla Engman)

Somehow they all seem linked - aside from all ending up on my computer last week.

 (Anonymous marches, Guardian again, this and below)

Faces.  Places. Voices.  Facades. Masks.  Expression.

We humans have so much power - in groups.

 (Jenny Lewis' photo of Paul Reynolds, curator via Spitalfields Life)

And as individuals.

 (This and the following two pictures, Steve McCurry)

And yet.

There can be so much loneliness.  As much when we're together.

As when we're apart.

There are days when it seems that the storm clouds have gathered and will refuse to ever clear.  For some of us this is not hypothetical.  It is our present.  Our reality.  Can any of us be certain of our safety?  When we don't feel safe that is also when we feel most alone.

I wish you all the very best this weekend.  I grieve for you Paris.  And I grieve for all the ideas/truths that you represent:

Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite

Singapore Part Three: Treasures and Temples

I always marvel at Indian temple art because of its almost cartoon-ey aesthetic which, because it is practically a thousand years old, creates expectations in me with my art history background, of something more sophisticated.

It does not have the heroic idealized beauty of Greek figurative sculpture, it does not have the pathos profundity and specificity of Roman portrait sculpture.  It does not have the dynamism of Italian renaissance works.  Or self-regarding wit of more modern sculptural explorations.

It has the folkloric appeal of simplified forms, exuberant color, and slave-ish faithfulness to tradition.

Nonetheless, I love it for it's whimsical, overt affection for its gods and for the feeling that anyone of these characters sharing space on a temple facade could, at the drop of  a hat, take flight.  And LAND in my backyard, or yours.

Sorry the pictures are not SO good, they were taken with an I-phone under less than ideal meteorological conditions.

The other aspect of Singapore that I find SOOOOOO appealing is one's ability to access OLD ASIA.

I have not been to mainland China but my understanding is that further to Soviet style communism which suppressed color and ornament, deeming it bourgeois, corrupt, and decadent, and since the New  Communist China has embraced safe Western  (American)  20th century aesthetics of neutral, characterless, restrained expression in design, that much of the color that is the cultural heritage of Chinese populations has been abandoned or suppressed.  In Singapore it is SO NOT THE CASE.  And I am GRATEFUL.

Mr. Paradis and I, on our last day in Singapore went on a mission to Geylang, an Eastern neighborhood of Singapore and currently reputed to be the red light district.  We were apprehensive about going, but the holy grail of the best execution of chili-crab by the "NO SIGNBOARD SEAFOOD COMPANY" gave us sufficient motivation to set aside our reservations and make the trek OUT.

I WOULD NOT HAVE MISSED THIS FOR THE WORLD!  Geylang is a neighborhood of local storefront shrines, wide boulevards, equally expansive awnings over welcoming sidewalk eateries and color for the pure sake of color, and for the sake of bringing pleasure to those who labor, pray and strive in its streets and byways.

Sadly we were not able to spend as much time there as we would have desired.  Which brings me to another story, and my warning to the wise:  These sorts of "ethnic neighborhoods" in Singapore are laced with open sewers of the raw concrete and 90 degree sharp angle kind.  (So you see, it is NOT the perfect, sanitized and baby-proofed environment that you might envision.)  The storm drains are not deep, but the sharp edges of the drain enclosures can do a lot of damage.

In his zeal to get a picture for Mlle Paradis of this delicious yellow temple with its dragons, because her camera battery had died,  Mr. Paradis stumbled into one of those open sewers, smashed his I-phone and tore up his shins fairly grievously.  With blood spurting everywhere and general pandemonium ensuing.....two exceedingly kind Singaporeans respectively watched over us and Mr. Paradis' improvised bandages of soiled Kleenex, fetched us a cab, and directed the driver to the nearest hospital open on a Sunday.

There Mr. Paradis was cheerily, swiftly and solicitously seen to.  With the Singaporean government picking up fully half of the 200 Dollar tab for medical treatment and urging on us what seemed like a year's supply of anti-biotics and pain killers FOR NO CHARGE WHATSOEVER!!!!!!!

So there Obama Health Care Reform!

And God forbid I ever again make remotely disparaging comments either in private OR PUBLIC about drippy, pale, bookish Chinese kids drifting around shopping malls in Singapore, because, on arrival at Tan Tock Seng Hospital it became quickly apparent to me that THEY are ACTUALLY, well...........DOCTORS!!!!!!!

I realize that Singapore is a benevolent dictatorship.  But in the face of malevolent, corporate incited anarchy, and a VENGEFUL God, which the U.S. seems to be increasingly on the track towards, I will take BENEVOLENT Gods and Governments under serious consideration.

I am also reproducing below, my further comment about why I felt I needed to say something about the past weekend's Arizona shootings.  I am not pure, and I reserve a certain privacy and anonymity to protect my husband, his job and my personal well-being.  But I nonetheless believe that the voices of sanity and reason have to rise above, repudiate and drown out the voices of hate.  Erego:

"Thanks everybody for commenting. I just feel that this is a very public activity that I'm taking part in, blogging, and even though I try to concern myself here mostly with pleasurable subjects, I am a serious person, trying to get on in the world as we all are, and I believe I have a responsibility to publicly reject the negative and irresponsible public behavior we see so much of lately. And I do believe that bad behavior has come from the political right.

I agree that we can't solve the folly and stupidity that mankind is inclined to, but not SO long ago, the U.S. was better than this, and set a better example for the rest of the world. Because of our increasingly irresponsible behavior, we are now a BAD example. And less safe from extremists and stupidity both within and without.

Mary, thanks for saying that I'm brave to speak out. All I can say is that there are people who want me to be afraid. And many of them aren't stupid. My fear would strengthen and serve them. I don't want to be made afraid and I hate myself when I let people frighten me. So I have to say something.

And that something is mostly, YES! WE CAN BE BETTER THAN THIS! 

And that's why I do Passage Paradis. To make a place to remember what is lost and hope I can inspire others to recreate it somehow, somewhere, and to have a place to discover what is wonderful, to honor and nurture and preserve those things so that we do have something of beauty and value to hand on to generations that follow us."

NUFF SAID!

Thanks to everybody who posted encouraging words!

Corner View - Rain

Courtesy of Mr. Paradis and the good people of Singapore.

As you all know I am congenitally averse to inclement weather.  Whether actual or virtual.  So this was the ONLY picture on this subject that I was able to dig up.  And no, the young lady was not hiding her eyes because of the relentlessly pounding precipitation, but more to conceal herself from the prying I-lens of a certain foreign interloper.

Stay dry and stay warm Chicos!

Find more Corner Views:  jane - ian - bonnie - joyce - kim - kay -trinsch - ritva - francesca - state of bliss - cabrizette - isabelle - janis -kari - jgy - lise - cate - otli - dorte - b -sophie - mcgillicutty - sunnymama -daan - ibb - pienduzz - kelleyn - ninja- sammi - theresa - cherry b - juliette -shokoofeh - cole - grey lemon -lucylaine - lynn - skywriting - anna -dorit - conny - l´atelier - kamana -anne marie - rosamaría - victoria -tikjewit - juniper - annabel - andrea -valerie - merel - soisses - mlle paradis- cacahuete - wander chow - barbara -emily - tally - nadine - matilda - don -flowtops - susanna - tania - dana -ingrid - tzivia - mezza - lollipop - mari

All Singapore, All Week. EATING. Corner View

OK if you didn't know if before, you will realize it by the end of this post, one of the reasons to go to Singapore, is because of the EATING.  If you like Chinese food, if you like Indian food, if you like Malaysian food, if you like any Asian food, and if you like all those foods mixed together, you will L-O-----V--E Singapore.  And if you like plenty of company when you eat, and you spend 24/7 thinking about what you are going to eat NEXT, you will think that you have died and gone to heaven.  

So, a strange thing about this heaven.....or, I mean, a particularly lovely little corner of this particular heaven......is that it is ALSO KNOWN AS.........The SUN-TEC SINGAPORE CONVENTION CENTER!

   Have you ever, EVER in your life, gone to a CONVENTION CENTER for the sole purpose of eating?  Breakfast?  

Well then, it may be that you have NEVER LIVED!

And you need probably, to hop on a plane and go to Singapore.

You may or may not know that Singapore's powers-that-be have determined over time that it is in the Singaporeans' and their visitors' interest to have access to cheap, fresh, wholesomely prepared and sanitarily purveyed restaurant food.  Across this enterprising city state, in a wholesale campaign, hawker stalls have been brought in from the sweltery dusty roadside, had roofs put over them, and air conditioning added, and brought into line with strict regulations.  Turned into chain restaurants under a grouping of corporate entities, you can find them every 1/2 a mile or so, taking up whole city blocks, or occupying the whole basements of department stores, malls and airports, or lending charm and vitality to yes, Convention Centers!  The quality of "Food Republic"offerings is excellent, as you can tell by the fact that it is packed!  (Of course I took these pictures on a weekend, which means the Food Courts were probably a little especially packed.)  But I'm talking about a Food Court.  FOOD COURT.  Not like any food courts you have ever known before.

OK.  What is this?  Mostly tofu.  You choose a style of noodle soup that you would like (I chose Malaysian Laksa with coconut curry broth - (and sorry, priorities, EATING - NO PICTURES!) and you fill your bowl with all the bits and bobs that you would like to have floating in it.  You are charged about 50 cents for each item that you want to add to your bowl and since this is a "tofu" stand most of the items are tofu in some form or another, many deep fried.  The colorful things on the right are peppers and eggplant stuffed with tofu.  Some are tofu rolled with seaweed or chicken, some are fishcake, some have minced mushrooms, and then you can also choose vegetables and mushrooms and garnishes like basil or coriander to sprinkle on top.  The TOFU is the sweetest, tenderest, silkiest, most flavorful and dimensional tofu you have tasted in your life.  It gives easily to your tooth but it is moist and slightly chewy and juicy with the flavors of the broth and whatever else it is cooked with.  SO YUMMY!  (Note to self:  Must get on plane and fly STRAIGHT back for more noodle soup and tofu!  Pronto!  I mean NOW!)

Deep fried grouper anybody?  I think this is a Malaysian specialty.  There's surely some spicy sauce (or two or three) to pour over it.  Award winning grouper.

Not sure, just enjoy the picture.  There were about 8 or 10 stalls in this food court.  This is a normal number.

This is a toast stall.   That tall yellow cone on the right?  It is BUTTER.  For your TOAST.  Most stalls specialize in one thing.  One stall served all the drinks in the food court, from Red Bull to Masala tea.  One stall served "Pratas".  The Prata stall was THE MOST POPULAR food stall in the joint on a Saturday morning.  "What are 'Pratas'?" - you might ask?  (Because I did.)  They are PARATHAS - Indian-style fried flat breads served with curries.  Do Singaporeans know something that we do not know?  Are we missing out?  Why ESPECIALLY is it necessary and GOOD to line up at the PRATA stall first thing on a Saturday morning?  (Note to self:  Remember to try those PRATAS!)

Before or after: DUMPLINGS!!!!!!  OK, yes HEAVEN!  No need to wait around in some glary bright red banquet hall waiting for some grouchy lady with a cart and giant tongs to remember your existence and how VERY HUNGRY YOU ARE!!!!!  Just stand in line in front of this magical edifice of steaming bamboo.  Place your instructions in a pleasant but businesslike manner and VOILA!  Magical tender tasty succulent dumplings!  In a bamboo basket of your very own.  Order as many as you can carry and RUN to the nearest table.  The quality is excellent.  So fresh, so juicy.  No, REALLY it is!  I would tell you if it disappointed in any way.  I cannot.

Now we are on ORCHARD ROAD.  In the basement of Takashimaya.  Orchard Road thinks it's upper Fifth Avenue in New York.  (OK Upper Fifth Avenue on steroids.)  There is an Hermes Shop next to a Zara every half-mile.  That's in between the Chanel and the Louis Vuitton and the Bulgari and and and and (well there are also Swensens' and TGIFriday's and Seven-Elevens and Chili's, Starbucks and huh-uhhhhh??????)  But Takashimaya sells Repetto ballet flats and Belgian chocolates and Sheridan sheets (and everything Harrods) - all in one place!

AND: these little chicken kebabs with an automated dipping and grilling machine all their very own.

And these little fishes with puffy batter insides and even deeper within ..... could that be chocolate or (more likely) sweet bean paste?

Another Food Republic here, in case you missed something at the Convention Center.  Oh yeah, Thai food and a stall specializing in "Porridge".  Do you know what exactly "Porridge" is?  When I was growing up we called it "Juk" (or "Jook") and it is basically a giant stock pot full of rice and water and the carcass of some kind of poultry.  You can garnish it with anything you like (after you remove the carcass) especially soy sauce and green onions/black pepper and basically it is the soul food of Cantonese cooking.

Exotic fruit desserts anyone?  Durian pudding?  Not something I eat EVERY day!  You?

JUST IN CASE.... all this exoticness is getting just a little too exotic for you.......chips on a stick!

Or maybe better, Parisian brunch?  At Hediard, also on Orchard Road.  (Mr. Paradis makes a stand in favor of eggs and soldiers on behalf of the whole of the Western world.)

And finally.  Even in Singapore, all things come to an end.  (My Big Fat Crazy Singaporean Weekend.)  So now where are we?  At the Esplanade, across from the Marina Bay Sands Hotel with it's unbelievable 57th Floor swimming pool the size of two football fields laid end to end.....(Note Again to Self:  Book ONE WEEK D-E-F-I-N-I-T-E-LY Here!)

We had tried to go to Geylang, where the best branch of this restaurant is reputed to be.  But Mr. Paradis had an accident while he was taking a picture of a BEAUTIFUL temple.  And we ended up at the hospital for several hours.  (Blood everywhere and an interminable taxi ride - but EVERYONE was SO NICE!)  

When he was able to hobble back through the subway and malls and all the endless escalators, this seemed to be the most sensible and convenient-to-the-hotel option.  NO SIGNBOARD SEAFOOD for white pepper crab and a big platter of chili crab.  (Again no pictures.  Sorry!  I only remember to take the picture AFTER the plate gets all messy and less appetizing.)  To be honest, it was not the life-changing experience I had hoped for.  But it was good.  And it is what Singapore is FAMOUS for. 

So I'll let you decide for yourself.  But.  You might just have to have it!

Find more Corner Views:  jane - ian - bonnie - joyce - kim - kay -trinsch - ritva - francesca - state of bliss - cabrizette - isabelle - janis -kari - jgy - lise - cate - otli - dorte - b -sophie - mcgillicutty - sunnymama -daan - ibb - pienduzz - kelleyn - ninja- sammi - theresa - cherry b - juliette -shokoofeh - cole - grey lemon -lucylaine - lynn - skywriting - anna -dorit - conny - l´atelier - kamana -anne marie - rosamaría - victoria -tikjewit - juniper - annabel - andrea -valerie - merel - soisses - mlle paradis- cacahuete - wander chow - barbara -emily - tally - nadine - matilda - don -flowtops - susanna - tania - dana -ingrid - tzivia - mezza - lollipop - mari

Singapore - Part Two

At the time that we were in Singapore (just over 2 weeks ago!) , Diwali was just a week away.  In Little India the 

anticipation was palpable.  The streets were filling with shoppers out looking for their holiday

sweets, saris, jewelry.

And decorations!

Is it because we're in Singapore, or because times are changing?  When we were in Mysore four years ago (pictures here), it was all about real flower garlands in massive quantities it seemed, for ornamenting the house.  In 2010, in this part of the world, plastic garlands rule,

and ceramic backlit tchotchkes.  Hey guess you can't stop progress!  (And Mr. Paradis and I did find these somehow fascinating.  Tacky or.....sublime?  Both???????)

The temple located between Serangoon Road (Little India's main thoroughfare see first pic top)
and Farrer Park, where the market below can be found, still has that whimsical, slightly wild feel that many gardens and temples in India have.  Which is reassuring.  There is something about the randomness of the inhabited landscape in India that has a strong appeal for some of us.  Have you been to India?  Do you feel that?   It's surprising, it's jarring, but somehow it keeps you on your toes and your senses in a state of hyper-sensitivity.  It makes you feel really alive.

Although much of Singapore is colorful, something about the India aesthetic seems to mean that a couple extra notes of color sophistication seems to be layered on.

I have to call on that cliche of "kaleidoscopic feast for the senses"

to describe it.  More is definitely more.  And I LOVE IT!

LET THE CELEBRATION BEGIN!!!! 

  (Most of these photos were taken on an I-Phone.  Not bad huh?)